The Gentleman’s Guide To Tailor Made Suits
Every true gentleman knows that you need a custom fitting suit if you’re considered a gent.
If you’ve ever wanted to get a bespoke made suit that hugs every part of your body, fits perfectly and makes you look like a real dandy, then I’m going to show you exactly how you can go about getting a suit that is bespoke in London.
Premium end, for those with no budget
Anderson Sheppard have been offering a bespoke tailoring service since 1906. They specialise in mens tailor made suits though they may also offer after care services such as cleaning. Located on Savile Row, their reputation precedes them, and many a male fashion icons have been dressed by them.
Offering to meet you with their Savile Row by Scooter service, Henry Herbert is another great place to acquire mens bespoke suits. Interested parties may simply call them up, or book an appointment to get their measurements taken. They also deal in men’s bespoke shirts.
Fielding and Nicholson
The Fielding and Nicholson franchise is yet another favorite for those seeking mens tailor made suits. Specialising in high end mens bespoke suits, the store is famous for its luxurious detail, and offer a wide range of customisable features. Meet them at Clerkenwell, Finsbury or Barbican.
If you’re on a tighter budget
Cad and the Dandy
Cad and the Dandy is another reasonable place to get a bespoke suit, making the grand offer of £549 for a machine stitched two piece suit, with an additional £150 for a half hand-stitched item, and a further £150 for a fully hand stitched item.
Placing an order for an extra trouser whilst buying the suit awards you a 15% bonus at the store. Meet them at The City, Savile Row and Canary Wharf.
King and Allen
Founded by Adam King and Jake Allen (hence the name), King and Allen are an affordable clothing outfit, offering mens tailor made suits for less than £1,000.
This is made possible by operating off the Savile Row, where large expenses may have to made on a pricey shop, and refraining from large advertising budgets they mostly depend on third party advertising. While not in London, they may make contact with you at home or at the office, if amongst a large group.
A Suit That Fits (Online)
If you’re not bothered about going to a London tailor or don’t actually live in the UK, then you should go for an online tailor like A Suit That Fits. These guys have blown up in the press recently and continue to create cracking suits which look really dapper.
You’ll be looking at around £350 per basic bespoke suit, but that’s a hell of a lot cheaper than the premium end tailors and don’t think you’re getting anything less either, it’s top quality.
Different styles of suits
Suits may be machine stitched, half hand-stitched, or fully hand-stitched. What follows is a primer on these three terms.
These are your common “off-the-peg” or “off-the-rack” suits, found in most fashion and clothing stores. They are manufactured on a large scale, making different size variations of a particular design.
Standard measurements are used for these suits, though they may be specific to the region of consumption. As such, it may be found that suits of the same description may vary in size with different markets, much as Japanese made cars might have been of discomfort to American consumers in early times.
While they may be pegged small (S), medium (M), large (L) and extra large (XL), they are irrespective of any particular body size, and therefore not a wonder if one’s measured a medium size, yet unable to get the right fit.
Perhaps also called made-to-measure suits, these suits are originally of machine stitching, but have had hand-made adjustments made to them. It could also refer to suits that were primarily machine stitched, then done over with hand made finishing.
This is where Savile Row stitching falls under, and is the highest form of mens bespoke tailoring (relaxed Advertising Standards Authority regulations accord the same term ‘bespoke’ to suits placed upon a working frame and machine-stitched). Everything from pattern to finishing is hand-stitched, and subsequently checked over for any errors.
Suits of this class are inherently the most expensive, and sell for anything above £1,000.
Best Material to Go For
This is a tricky one and all depends on where and when you intend to use the suit. If aspiring for a glamorous appeal, then fabrics with a slight sheen such as worsen wool may be the best fit.
If in a tropical country, or in a region experiencing warm summer, flannel and tweed may not be a bad choice. Wool flannel may also be an appropriate choice for those desiring a season-less suit, courtesy of the said fabric’s softer, even fluzzly, characteristics.
Time it takes to make a bespoke suit
The traditions of men’s bespoke tailoring make it a 6-8 week affair before you get your first fitting. This is because mens bespoke suits have to go through a painstaking hand-made designing process, that seeks to deliver only the finest fit.
Some tailors may, however, offer an express service to interested parties, cutting the process to a 3-4 week wait.
If any errors are found on the cloth, nonetheless, clients may have to wait a further period (perhaps a week to ten days more), as they await the necessary adjustments. Though most men’s bespoke suit tailors pride themselves in their accuracy, it may not be alien to be asked for a further wait, if errors still are still found on the second fitting.
Do you know any other tailors in London? Maybe you’ve had your own suit made there, let us know below.
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