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The Gentleman’s Guide To Tailor Made Suits

13 Comments - By Vesper Black

Every true gentleman knows that you need a custom fitting suit if you’re considered a gent.

If you’ve ever wanted to get a bespoke made suit that hugs every part of your body, fits perfectly and makes you look like a real dandy, then I’m going to show you exactly how you can go about getting a suit that is bespoke in London.

Premium end, for those with no budget

Anderson Sheppard

Anderson Sheppard have been offering a bespoke tailoring service since 1906. They specialise in mens tailor made suits though they may also offer after care services such as cleaning. Located on Savile Row, their reputation precedes them, and many a male fashion icons have been dressed by them.

Henry Herbert

Offering to meet you with their Savile Row by Scooter service, Henry Herbert is another great place to acquire mens bespoke suits. Interested parties may simply call them up, or book an appointment to get their measurements taken. They also deal in men’s bespoke shirts.

Fielding and Nicholson

The Fielding and Nicholson franchise is yet another favorite for those seeking mens tailor made suits. Specialising in high end mens bespoke suits, the store is famous for its luxurious detail, and offer a wide range of customisable features. Meet them at Clerkenwell, Finsbury or Barbican.

If you’re on a tighter budget

Cad and the Dandy

Cad and the Dandy is another reasonable place to get a bespoke suit, making the grand offer of £549 for a machine stitched two piece suit, with an additional £150 for a half hand-stitched item, and a further £150 for a fully hand stitched item.

Placing an order for an extra trouser whilst buying the suit awards you a 15% bonus at the store. Meet them at The City, Savile Row and Canary Wharf.

King and Allen

Founded by Adam King and Jake Allen (hence the name), King and Allen are an affordable clothing outfit, offering mens tailor made suits for less than £1,000.

This is made possible by operating off the Savile Row, where large expenses may have to made on a pricey shop, and refraining from large advertising budgets they mostly depend on third party advertising. While not in London, they may make contact with you at home or at the office, if amongst a large group.

A Suit That Fits (Online)

If you’re not bothered about going to a London tailor or don’t actually live in the UK, then you should go for an online tailor like A Suit That Fits. These guys have blown up in the press recently and continue to create cracking suits which look really dapper.

You’ll be looking at around £350 per basic bespoke suit, but that’s a hell of a lot cheaper than the premium end tailors and don’t think you’re getting anything less either, it’s top quality.

Different styles of suits

Suits may be machine stitched, half hand-stitched, or fully hand-stitched. What follows is a primer on these three terms.

Machine Stitched

These are your common “off-the-peg” or “off-the-rack” suits, found in most fashion and clothing stores. They are manufactured on a large scale, making different size variations of a particular design.

Standard measurements are used for these suits, though they may be specific to the region of consumption. As such, it may be found that suits of the same description may vary in size with different markets, much as Japanese made cars might have been of discomfort to American consumers in early times.

While they may be pegged small (S), medium (M), large (L) and extra large (XL), they are irrespective of any particular body size, and therefore not a wonder if one’s measured a medium size, yet unable to get the right fit.

Half Hand-Stitched

Perhaps also called made-to-measure suits, these suits are originally of machine stitching, but have had hand-made adjustments made to them. It could also refer to suits that were primarily machine stitched, then done over with hand made finishing.

Fully Hand-Stitched

This is where Savile Row stitching falls under, and is the highest form of mens bespoke tailoring (relaxed Advertising Standards Authority regulations accord the same term ‘bespoke’ to suits placed upon a working frame and machine-stitched). Everything from pattern to finishing is hand-stitched, and subsequently checked over for any errors.

Suits of this class are inherently the most expensive, and sell for anything above £1,000.

Best Material to Go For

This is a tricky one and all depends on where and when you intend to use the suit. If aspiring for a glamorous appeal, then fabrics with a slight sheen such as worsen wool may be the best fit.

If in a tropical country, or in a region experiencing warm summer, flannel and tweed may not be a bad choice. Wool flannel may also be an appropriate choice for those desiring a season-less suit, courtesy of the said fabric’s softer, even fluzzly, characteristics.

Time it takes to make a bespoke suit

The traditions of men’s bespoke tailoring make it a 6-8 week affair before you get your first fitting. This is because mens bespoke suits have to go through a painstaking hand-made designing process, that seeks to deliver only the finest fit.

Some tailors may, however, offer an express service to interested parties, cutting the process to a 3-4 week wait.

If any errors are found on the cloth, nonetheless, clients may have to wait a further period (perhaps a week to ten days more), as they await the necessary adjustments. Though most men’s bespoke suit tailors pride themselves in their accuracy, it may not be alien to be asked for a further wait, if errors still are still found on the second fitting.

Do you know any other tailors in London? Maybe you’ve had your own suit made there, let us know below.

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Vesper Black

We are affiliated with film, fashion and media, which has formed a unique boutique lifestyle brand. We offer warm, friendly and sophisticated events.

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13 Comments so far
  1. william somerville

    Even high end tailors usually apply your measurements to core patterns that are part of a “house look” and, however well made, these often have a conservative appearance reflecting the unsophisticated taste of corporate customers.

    Could you discuss how to go about having your suit designed as a truly one off garment. My understanding is that this may involve one or more prototypes made in calico and this is not something tailors necessarily want to be bothered with

    Sunday 2nd September 2012, 8:24 am Reply
  2. Roger Bann

    I have have recently had a suit made by a company called Apsley in London – unlike some of the cheaper bespoke suit makers they did a full baste fitting in London, although I believe they sent it to be hand stitched in Hong Kong. They then did another fitting in London. I spent about £850 and they turned it around in 4 weeks….good suit – I found them as they do the suits for West Ham.

    Thursday 10th January 2013, 4:19 pm Reply
  3. Andrew Smith

    Jonathan Quearney offers a fantastic and true bespoke service which is affordable yet of the highest quality. The relationship between tailor and customer is something he understands and he is intuitive which makes it easy to translate the customers wishes to the workshop. I shall return to him for sure.

    Wednesday 23rd January 2013, 10:43 am Reply
  4. Online Custom Made Suits

    Very nice post your blog I like it.

    Thursday 31st January 2013, 2:00 am Reply
  5. Mens Tailor

    It was such a wonderful blog… I appreciate that person who create it… I found lot of information from this blog.. Keep it up.

    Thursday 18th April 2013, 6:19 am Reply
  6. Monica @ HongKongTailors

    Insightful. If you knew any tailors from Hong Kong like Ascot Chang, Raja Fashions, Bonham Strand etc., they offer affordable and high quality services custom made suits for gentlemen. So if you are looking for the best, feel free to see it for yourself. :)

    Wednesday 8th May 2013, 2:19 pm Reply
  7. Kavin @ Tailor in Bangkok

    Quality different style suits can get in fewer prices at custom tailor shop , Bangkok and Hong Kong are the great designation for custom clothing.

    Tuesday 6th August 2013, 6:30 am Reply
  8. Ieva J

    I really liked aAntonio Montebello on new kings road. They make beautiful bespoke suits.

    Tuesday 4th March 2014, 6:32 pm Reply
  9. mac

    Savilerow Inside rose hotel makes amazing suits

    Sunday 20th April 2014, 10:43 am Reply
    • Robert

      Agree to disagree. Savile row in Rose Hotel Bangkok is where you go for cheap suits, not bespoke..

      Machine stitched, low quality suits (i had 3 made at the same time.. all of which had faults).

      Though for the $200 per suit.. what more can you expect..

      Saturday 13th December 2014, 8:47 pm Reply
  10. aaa

    I got this website from my friend who shared with me regarding this web site
    and at the moment this time I am visiting this website and
    reading very informative posts at this time.

    Monday 12th January 2015, 2:51 pm Reply
  11. aaa

    Good info. Lucky me I came across your site by accident (stumbleupon).
    I have bookmarked it for later!

    Monday 12th January 2015, 4:25 pm Reply
  12. tailor made suits in Mumbai

    I get mine from vanityhomme.com. I have not heard any of the above but from my comparison with Blank Label, is more affordable and it gives more option on shirt customisation. For example, it allows the choice of whether you would want to have back darts. [vanityhomme.com] is based in Mumbai

    Friday 3rd July 2015, 12:10 pm Reply
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